Japan Travel Guide: Hakone
Famous for its hot springs and *very natural* beauty, we pulled a 180 on the vibe check and headed down to quiet Hakone as our second destination on the Japan tour. I was pretty excited to see more of Japan’s countryside and catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji while we were at it. HOWEVER, we arrived to a downpour and lots of fog, so much of our stay was hindered by the weather. Even though the clouds were a downer, we still managed to do most things on our list and definitely made the best of it!
What to Do:
Lake Ashi - we hopped on a sightseeing boat that looked like it was straight out of Pirates of the Caribbean and cruised over Ashinoko to the Hakone Shrine. It’s a quick fun ride and if the skies are clear, you’ll be able to have a great view of Mount Fuji on the way. Maybe we’ll catch it next time...
Hakone Shrine - this is the most well-known shrine in Hakone and sits right at the foot of the shore on Lake Ashi. You can’t miss the giant torii gates, but be prepared to stand in line for your picture.
The Hakone Ropeway - we took this all the way up, about a 15 minute ride, to enjoy the views (and smells) of the sulfuric hot springs of the Owakudani Valley.
Owakudani - at the top of the ropeway is a crater created during the last eruption of Mount Hakone some 3,000 years ago. I wasn’t paying too much attention to the history because I was 1. very distracted by the sulfurous fumes (volcanoes or whateva) and 2. trying to finally get my hands on a black sulfur egg we kept hearing about. They’re boiled in the naturally hot water, so the shells are blackened by the sulfur and are said to add seven years to your life. I felt younger as soon as we ate them; p.s. they taste just like a regular boiled egg.
Open Air Museum - I honestly don’t remember how we actually got here. I’m sure it was a calculated route but I feel like we somehow stumbled upon this outdoor museum. All the fog was messing with my head. There are different sections and exhibition spaces outdoors and indoors, such as a Picasso exhibition and the ceramic staircase of my dreams.
What to Eat:
Soba - the food options felt a bit limited here, but it could’ve been the whiplash coming off the food overload that was Tokyo. We managed to find a nice soba spot and our first experience and it did not disappoint. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the name of the restaurant was, but there are lots of options to choose from. Unlike Ramen and Udon, these noodles are made from buckwheat flour and usually gluten free. Health is wealth.
The first night, we stumbled upon an Izakaya in “town” (not sure you can even consider it a town). It was SO good, though. We had the best crispy rice, salmon and more sake.
A few other notes about Hakone: public hot springs called onsens are really popular here but beware tattoos are frowned upon, so you’ll likely have to reserve a private one if you’re #teamtatted. We weren’t able to make a reservation because Golden Week was hell, but we were ready to cover up with bandaids just in case. As I’m sure you noticed, my food list wasn’t too robust - that’s mainly because we just walked until we found something good. Again, it’s not a metro city so take what you can find in this place! I wouldn’t say Hakone was my faaaavorite destination of the four, but it’s definitely worth visiting!
Up next: the best of Kyoto!